🧀 Bitto

Bitto is an Italian cooked-curd cheese with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO, registered in 1996). According to the specification, it is made only on alpine pastures, from 1 June to 30 September, from raw whole milk of cows of traditional local breeds, to which up to 10% raw goat's milk may be added. ³

How it is made. The milk must come from the whole province of Sondrio, the alpine pastures of some municipalities of Alta Valle Brembana (Bergamo) and three alpine pastures in the municipalities of Introbio and Premana (Lecco). The milk of a single milking is processed raw, on the spot, right after milking, with calf rennet, salt and native ferments; the curd is cooked at 48–52 °C. The cows eat the grass of the pastures; the specification allows a limited supplement (up to 3 kg of dry matter a day of maize, barley, wheat, soy or molasses) and emergency hay only in extreme weather. ³

Why summer only. Bitto depends on what cows eat on high pastures, so it is made only from 1 June to 30 September, and each milking is processed on the spot. In 2024 the consortium counted 45 alpine pastures with about 3,000 cows and 300 goats, at 1,400–2,300 m. A study following one herd up the mountain found that the milk's fats and aromatic compounds shifted with the pasture and remained in cheese ripened 70 days. Those traces reflect mountain grazing rather than something unique to Bitto. ³⁵⁶

Shape and ripening. The wheel is a regular cylinder with flat faces 30–50 cm across and a concave heel with sharp edges, 8–12 cm high; it weighs 8 to 25 kg. Ripening lasts at least 70 days and begins in the alpine huts; it can continue for several years (the consortium mentions up to ten years). Cheese aged at least one year may be used grated. ³⁴

Look and taste. The rind is straw-yellow, getting deeper with age, 2–4 mm thick. The paste is compact, with sparse “partridge-eye” holes, white to straw-yellow depending on age, and at least 45% fat in dry matter. Young Bitto tastes sweet and delicate, with a buttery, soluble paste; with age the taste grows more intense, the paste drier and slightly granular. Goat's milk, if added, makes the aroma stronger. ³

Why the name is disputed. The cheese relies on native bacteria: a study of three cheeses at 120 days found mainly enterococci and lactobacilli, and suggested preserving this wild population. Local reports say that when the rules widened the area and allowed extra feed and selected cultures, producers from the Gerola and Albaredo valleys kept the older way. Their cheese, now called Storico Ribelle, uses pasture only and 10–20 % Orobica goat's milk. So “Bitto” on a label does not mean Storico Ribelle. ⁴⁷⁸

Why it matters to you. A genuine Bitto carries a hot-branded mark on the heel, applied at the end of ripening: the word “Bitto” with a stylised wheel of cheese missing a slice. Under set conditions the name of the alpine pasture may also be shown. It is a raw-milk cheese, so check first if you avoid those. ³