🏯 So (dairy product)
A dairy product of imperial Japan in the 7th–10th centuries: layers of milk skin pressed into a soft mass, used as medicine, an offering to the gods and tribute to the court. Daigo was made from it.
So (蘇, originally 酥) is a dairy product made in Japan from the 7th to the 10th century. It was made by heating milk repeatedly and skimming off the skins that formed: the layers of milk skin were pressed into a soft mass. According to descriptions, it had a light taste, similar to fresh curd cheese. Further processing of so produced daigo, a product whose name later became a symbol of supreme delight in Japanese (daigomi).
According to the Engishiki code of laws, so came to Japan from the Korean kingdom of Baekje. The first mention dates to the reign of Emperor Monmu (697–707). Production was overseen by the court Bureau of Medicine within the Ministry of the Imperial Household; known production sites included, for example, Ajifu in Settsu Province (present-day Osaka). So was presented to the emperor as tribute and used as medicine and as an offering to the gods.
After the 10th century dairy culture in Japan faded for a long time and revived only in the Meiji era. Today so and similar products are recreated from historical descriptions as culinary reconstructions. So differs from cheese in that it is made by compacting milk skins rather than by curdling; it is closer to kaymak or khoa.
How it connects to milk
🏯 So (dairy product) → made from → 🥛 Milk
Links
- Made from
- 🥛 Milk
- Where it is traditional
- 🌍 East Asia
- Which peoples make it
- 🧑🤝🧑 Japanese
- Product type
- 🏺 Traditional dairy products
- Part of
- 🥫 Preserved milk products
Frequently asked questions
What was so in ancient Japan?
A dairy product of the 7th–10th centuries made from compacted layers of milk skin; it was presented to the emperor and used as medicine.
What is daigo?
A product made by further processing so. The word survives in the Japanese expression daigomi, “the taste of daigo”, meaning supreme delight.
What to read next
- 🌍 East Asia — China and Japan: rare but ancient dairy traditions — the Bai people's dried rushan cheese, Guangdong's milk pudding, and so at the Japanese court.
- 🏺 Traditional dairy products — Products made for centuries to folk recipes: fermenting, cheesemaking, slow baking, drying. Tied to regions and peoples.
Similar
🍯 Cajeta · 🍯 Dulce de leche · 🍬 Khoa · 🥫 Condensed milk · 🧀 Milk powder · 🍼 Infant formula
ℹ️ Dairy products contain lactose and milk proteins: if you are lactose intolerant or allergic to milk protein, ask a doctor.