Lardo di Colonnata

Lardo di Colonnata (Colonnata lardo) is cured pork back fat from the village of Colonnata near Carrara in Tuscany. Slabs of fat are laid in marble basins called «conche», layered with sea salt, black pepper, rosemary and garlic, and left for at least six months in their own brine. White, soft and fragrant, it is sliced very thin.

Not just any marble will do: the specification demands white stone from the «Canaloni» quarries of the Colonnata basin, either one hollowed block or slabs at least 2 cm thick. Conche from the 17th to 19th centuries are still found in the village itself.

The fat comes from the back, from the nape to the rump and down the sides to the belly, and must be more than 3 cm thick. The pigs come from 10 Italian regions, from Tuscany to Molise.

The season runs from September to May. Within 72 hours of slaughter the fat is trimmed, massaged with salt and laid in garlic-rubbed conche in layers with salt, pepper, fresh rosemary and garlic; cinnamon, star anise, coriander, nutmeg, cloves, sage or oregano may be added. The basin is closed with a lid, and for at least six months the lardo rests in poorly ventilated rooms without forced air conditioning. The fat releases moisture and a brine, the «salamora», forms. Flavourings, preservatives, starters and other additives are banned. PGI status came with Regulation (EC) 1856/2004 of 26 October 2004.

The texture is moist and even, the colour white, sometimes pinkish or lightly browned. On top sits a dark crust of salt and herbs, underneath the skin. The taste is delicate, fresh, almost sweet and finely savoury.

Italy makes lardo outside Colonnata too: Lard d'Arnad ages from 90 days in wooden tubs of brine, while Colonnata spends at least six months in marble, in dry layers. It differs from pancetta in having no lean layers, and from Ukrainian salo in both country and method.

The label reads «Lardo di Colonnata» with «Indicazione geografica protetta» or IGP in larger letters than the rest of the text, plus the producer's name. Pieces of 250–5000 g are sold vacuum-packed, and whole pieces carry a single-use seal.

Why this matters to you: the big IGP letters and the seal guarantee the fat spent half a year in Colonnata marble, not in any old basin.