🥃 Absinthe de Pontarlier

Absinthe de Pontarlier is the only EU geographical indication for absinthe. It was registered by Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2019/1350 of 12 August 2019, following a French application from 2014. The whole name is protected; the word «absinthe» on its own may still be used by other producers on labels.

Where and from what. Grand wormwood is grown and dried in the 20 communes of the Doubs department around Pontarlier, without fertilisers or herbicides, in shade and without fans. The plants are also macerated, distilled, adjusted to strength and bottled there. Grand wormwood and green anise seed are compulsory; star anise is banned.

How it is made. The herbs are steeped in ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin and water, then distilled in copper stills of up to 3,000 litres. The colour comes from an infusion of Pontic wormwood and hyssop. Strength may not be raised after distillation; sugar up to 35 g/l is allowed, and ageing in wood is permitted. The finished drink has at least 45% ABV and at least 20 mg/l of thujone.

History. According to the specification, on 14 February 1805 Major Dubied moved production from Val-de-Travers to Pontarlier. At the start of the 20th century the town had 25 distilleries, and in 1914 it produced 66,000 litres a day. After the ban on absinthe, the tradition was kept alive by aniseed drinks, until drinks with wormwood were allowed again in 1988.

Why this matters to you. The name Absinthe de Pontarlier guarantees origin and method, but it does not make the drink safer: strength is at least 45% ABV. Thujone here is part of the aroma, not a «special effect». WHO reminds us: there is no safe amount of alcohol.